The Romans travelled with portable sun dials, some of which included a compass, but the earliest watches made in a form we can recognise date from c.1550 and were made in France and Germany. By the end of the 1500’s, most watches were circular, about 50 mm (2 inches) in diameter and around half an inch thick.
The invention of the spring mechanism triggered the evolution of the watch, although early examples were very inaccurate until c.1675 when the balance spring was developed. At this time they were also rare and expensive symbols of wealth and success and were often worn around the neck where they could be easily admired...
Watches have always been collected as much for their cases as for the complexities of their movements and some cases are works of art in their own right, made from silver or gold, often elaborately engraved or enamelled. The earliest cases protected the dials – glass faces weren’t introduced until the 1600’s. Repeater watches also made their appearance at this time, striking the preceding hour when a lever was depressed.
Early watches were wound by a key, and often had beautifully engraved dials and back plates. Even the balance cocks were finely crafted, and some specialist enthusiasts collect these separately today. The first keyless watch was made c.1790, wound by turning the knob at the top of the case.
Most clockmakers made watches at this time, although American examples are rare. The first recorded manufacture of American watches was by Luther Goddard of Shrewsbury, Massachusetts c.1809.Later around 1850, Edward Howard and Aaron Dennison began the Waltham Watch Company. Thousands of American pocket watches were being mass-produced and exported to Europe by the end of the 1800’s.
The invention of the spring mechanism triggered the evolution of the watch, although early examples were very inaccurate until c.1675 when the balance spring was developed. At this time they were also rare and expensive symbols of wealth and success and were often worn around the neck where they could be easily admired...
Watches have always been collected as much for their cases as for the complexities of their movements and some cases are works of art in their own right, made from silver or gold, often elaborately engraved or enamelled. The earliest cases protected the dials – glass faces weren’t introduced until the 1600’s. Repeater watches also made their appearance at this time, striking the preceding hour when a lever was depressed.
Early watches were wound by a key, and often had beautifully engraved dials and back plates. Even the balance cocks were finely crafted, and some specialist enthusiasts collect these separately today. The first keyless watch was made c.1790, wound by turning the knob at the top of the case.
Most clockmakers made watches at this time, although American examples are rare. The first recorded manufacture of American watches was by Luther Goddard of Shrewsbury, Massachusetts c.1809.Later around 1850, Edward Howard and Aaron Dennison began the Waltham Watch Company. Thousands of American pocket watches were being mass-produced and exported to Europe by the end of the 1800’s.
Collector Notes
Millions of pocket watches of varying qualities have been manufactured since the mid 1800’s. The lesser ones do not have jewels (or synthetic sapphires) set into the watch plate. A fully jewelled watch normally has 17 jewels (a fact that is often stated on the plate) this is the minimum number of jewel bearings in the workings of a good quality watch. Check that the dial has no cracks and that the case is free of dents and bruises.
Clock cases of gold plate as opposed to solid gold were made in large numbers. Look carefully in the back: many gold plate cases bear the inscription “This case guaranteed to wear 10 years.” Any solid gold case manufactured in UK will bear British hallmarks.
Clock cases of gold plate as opposed to solid gold were made in large numbers. Look carefully in the back: many gold plate cases bear the inscription “This case guaranteed to wear 10 years.” Any solid gold case manufactured in UK will bear British hallmarks.
Collector Tips
Check that the case of a pocket watches labelled ‘gold’ really is gold, particularly American watches. Rolled gold – plating with gold fused to other metals – cases of excellent quality were produced in quantity and are not easy to spot.
Pocket watches date back to 1675. Engraved or hand painted pictures of rural or hunting scenes add value, as do those of classical mythology, so keep a lookout for these.
Small Ladies fob watches are good value because they were made in large numbers and are less sought after than the larger examples.
Pocket watches date back to 1675. Engraved or hand painted pictures of rural or hunting scenes add value, as do those of classical mythology, so keep a lookout for these.
Small Ladies fob watches are good value because they were made in large numbers and are less sought after than the larger examples.
Watch Terms
Open Faced WatchHas no covers protecting the glass
Half Hunter
Has a cover with a hole in the centre through which the hands are visible: the cover is usually engraved with a set of roman numerals
Full Hunter
Has a cover that protects the entire front of the pocket watch
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